I’m sure you’re familiar with the process.
Some major football competition comes around and someone in the office
(who is typically disinterested in football for the rest of the year) whips out
a little bowl with lots of tiny folded pieces of paper, asks you for £2, and
offers you the chance to win big. Well, not that big, but normally enough to
cover a round at the pub.
What’s the harm? Worst case you spend £2
engaging yourself in the action. You support another team, you have a small
vested interest in some of the games that you wouldn’t have noticed, and you
can join in the chat around the water-cooler. (Three things that actually
happen at water-coolers: 1. getting a glass of water, 2. waiting behind the
person getting the glass of wishing you’d timed your trip better. 3. No chats).
Well my friend, if that is all that can
happen, play the sweepstake, play away. But beware.
In 2006 I was working in an office as a
summer temp between my first and second year of University. If you have a
memory, or are capable of doing maths, you will know there was a World Cup in that
year. It was held in Germany
in fact. Good stuff.
I wanted to have something to chat about
with the predominantly male team. Partly because it makes the days go faster,
partly because the work was a bit dull and entirely because I thought one of
them was very cute. So, innocently, I paid my £2 and put my hand in the hat.
People talk about incidental, seemingly
small decisions, noting how they can affect your life. “If you’d taken the
stairs rather than the lift you would have bumped into John and he would have
invited you to a party where you met your future husband.” That sort of thing.
But it’s often hard to locate those exact moments.
For me, in this instance, it is not. That
moment when I put my hand in that envelope, and closed my fingers around a
small scrap of paper changed my life. I like the random element to it to. Like
in some way I was electing to leave my future to chance. But I say this with the
poetic notions of hindsight, at the time I was probably just trying not to pick
Iran.
The paper proclaimed that I would be
supporting ‘Ghana’.
I think this was probably pre-sporcle, and my knowledge of exactly where
everything is in the world was incomplete, but I had a rough idea that this was
a country in West Africa.
Over the course of the world cup I was
actually fired from the temp job (that’s another tale for another time). However,
my keen sense of loyalty kept me supporting the Ghanaian national team. I was enthused
by their story and the passion of their fans. This was their first World Cup,
an ordinary African team with no hopes of winning, just happy to be playing
football. I found it refreshing. Every goal was a bonus, every win an
inspiration.
I started to ‘we’ like a proper fan. ‘We
scored’, ‘we have to play Brazil’,
‘we have some strong young players’. I didn’t play any part in the scoring, or
the preparation to play Brazil,
obviously, but that’s the strange linguistic convention sporting fans engage
in. It’s very odd when you think about it. You wouldn’t hear a Coldplay fan
saying ‘we sold out Wembley’ or a Harry Potter fan saying ‘we’re opening a
Theme Park’. With sports you’re somehow involved though.
Sharing in the glory of my adopted team, I
was pleased we qualified from the group stages. And my behaviour had been noted
by a close group of friends who duly and appropriately ripped it out of me for
talking about Ghana
as a ‘we’. ‘You’re not Ghanaian Helen!’
The joke stuck around longer than the
Ghanaians, and even the World Cup, and Ghana was on my radar. On my
birthday a friend bought me a travel guide to Ghana, and a Ghanaian flag.
I have that ‘I want to go to there’ disease
where knowing about a country isn’t enough. I’d say it isn’t anything in fact.
I don’t want to read too much about it or look at pretty pictures. I don’t want
to watch a documentary where someone else gets to explore it. I want to go to
there. I want to see it around me, and notice what I notice, and think what I
think.*
Put two and two together. I like going
places, Ghana
is on my radar. I like going places, Ghana is on my radar. I like going
places… I went to Ghana.
I selected a volunteering project for the
summer of 2007. Staying in “Kumasi, no, wait, Accra… hmmm, no, you’ll be in Kumasi. Ah, actually, Koforidua” with a
“young family… no, a big family… no, a small family” I helped in an orphanage
and got used to how to make infirm plans, African style.
I came to ask myself whether this was a
volunteering agency, or a dating service. I was 23 and my fellow traveller was
19. She was placed in a house with many children, including a 20 year old son.
My family consisted solely of Emilia, the mother, and Mark, the 23 year old
son.
Mark and I dated for a year and half. I
visited Ghana
three times, staying for about two and a half months the last time I went. I
can’t say the relationship was all good, or all bad. It was what it was, a
relationship that didn’t work out. But it’s an experience I’m glad I had. In
some ways it probably ticked the boxes of all the clichés of a white girl
dating an African, and in some ways it was no different from other
relationships I’ve had with people in this country.
Ghana
itself is an interesting place. Sometimes I hated the heat, especially at night
when I stuck to the sheets. The mosquitoes weren’t very friendly, or were too
friendly depending on how you see it, and they gave me some malaria, which is
unpleasant. I spent my days dreaming of cheeses, there seem to be no animals
which produce milk. It’s certainly not used in any Ghanaian cuisine or found in
any Ghanaian shops, and the prevalence of chilli didn’t agree with my digestive
tract.
On the other hand the country is beautiful.
In terms of the colours you see in the cities, the landscapes, the simple
architecture in the North, the sprawling greenery and National Parks, the
elephants in lakes, the tumbling waterfalls. In terms of the people who wave at
you as you pass and ask you how your day is going, while respectfully keeping
out of your business, it was never a place where I felt hassled. In terms of
the relaxed atmosphere, of ‘African time’, of lazy days in the sun.
It was a whole different world, and I can
say one thing for certain, I don’t think I ever would have been in that world
if it wasn’t for that tiny folded piece of paper.
So you don’t know where that hand in a hat will lead you.
So you don’t know where that hand in a hat will lead you.
That said, I’ll give you the benefit of the
doubt and assume you’re not completely insane, and that in fact it won’t lead
you anywhere but a world where you have £2 less to your name. As for me, I'm safe. For Euro 2012 I delved into my destiny and picked out 'England'.
*I’d like to temper that paragraph with a
massive ‘within reason’. And obviously wouldn’t go somewhere without knowing a
lot about it. I’m mainly not an idiot. Although this post suggests otherwise.
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